Do I Need Extra Calcium For My Crested Gecko?
Calcium. It’s one of the most talked-about topics in the gecko community, and also one of the most misunderstood. Should you be dusting your gecko’s food? Adding a supplement dish? Or does a good complete diet already have it covered? Let’s break it all down. Why Calcium Matters for Crested Geckos Calcium isn’t optional, it’s essential to life. Your crested gecko’s body relies on it for bone strength, proper muscle function, nerve signaling, and in females, healthy egg production. Without enough calcium, geckos can develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), a progressive and irreversible condition that causes bone deformities, jaw changes, weakness, and fractures. In breeding females, low calcium can lead to hypocalcemia and egg binding, both of which can be life-threatening. In the wild, crested geckos access calcium through a varied natural diet of insects, overripe fruits, and nectar. In captivity, we control what goes in the bowl, so it’s on us to get it right. The Short Answer: It Depends on How You’re Feeding Here’s the key question: are you feeding a nutritionally complete powdered diet, or are you supplementing with live insects? If you’re feeding a quality complete gecko diet (CGD) as your gecko’s primary food source, that diet should already contain the calcium your gecko needs — no extra dusting required for the MRP portion of their meals. However, if you’re offering live feeder insects regularly (which is always a great idea for enrichment and variety), those insects need to be dusted with a calcium supplement before feeding, because insects on their own don’t provide adequate calcium for your gecko’s needs. What About Calcium Powder Supplements? Calcium powders come in two main forms: with vitamin D3 and without vitamin D3. D3 is critical because it’s what allows your gecko’s body to actually absorb and use the calcium it gets. Without enough D3, calcium passes right through. If your habitat has UVB lighting, your gecko can synthesize some D3 on their own — in which case plain calcium (without D3) is appropriate for dusting insects. If you’re not using UVB, a calcium-with-D3 supplement becomes more important. A word of caution: more is not always better. Over-supplementation is a real concern. Too much vitamin D3 can cause toxicity, and excess calcium can actually interfere with the absorption of other essential minerals. Stick to the guidance on your supplement label and avoid the temptation to pile on extra powder “just in case.” How Much Calcium Is Already in Your Gecko’s Diet? This is where it gets interesting — and where not all complete diets are created equal. Two of the most widely used complete gecko diets on the market are Pangea Gecko Diet and Lugarti’s Premium Gecko Diet, both of which we carry here at Gecko Fancy. (P.S. keep an eye out for Frugivite by Gecko Fancy when it comes out in the next few months, it’s significantly higher in calcium than both Pangea and Lugarti, without over-calcifying!) Pangea Gecko Diet is formulated specifically to minimize oxalates and other anti-nutrients that can block calcium absorption, which is a smart approach. Depending on the formula, their complete diets list a minimum calcium content of around 1.2%. It’s a trusted, widely respected staple in the community. Lugarti’s Premium Gecko Diet is another excellent option — one we’re big fans of and proud to stock. It’s made with whole dried fruits, insect meal, bee pollen, probiotics, and a robust vitamin and mineral blend. Lugarti’s calcium content is notably higher, with their formulas listing minimums in the range of 1.8%, making it a particularly strong choice for reproductive females or geckos with higher calcium demands. (Gecko Fancy pro-tip, Lugarti is our favorite of the commercially available brands!) Both are solid choices, and rotating between them is one of the best things you can do to give your gecko nutritional variety. Coming Summer 2026: Frugivite — Our Own Complete Gecko Diet We’ve been working on something we’re genuinely proud of, and we can’t wait for you to see it. Later this summer, Gecko Fancy will be launching Frugivite — our own nutritionally complete frugivorous gecko diet, launching in two flavors. We developed Frugivite because we wanted to offer something that didn’t just meet the bar — it jumps right over it. One of the things we’re most excited about is the nutrition profile. Frugivite is formulated with a target of 2% calcium — significantly higher than other leading complete diets on the market, including Pangea’s complete formulas which come in around 1.2% minimum. That’s a meaningful difference, especially for breeding females, fast-growing juveniles, and any gecko that needs that extra calcium support built right into their everyday diet. The full guaranteed analysis targets: Crude Protein 26.6%, Crude Fat 4.8%, Crude Ash 7–8%, Crude Fiber <5%, and Calcium 2%. The goal with Frugivite was simple, a clean, complete, nutritionally dense diet that keepers feel confident feeding every single day, without having to wonder whether their gecko is getting enough of the nutrients that matter most. More details — including flavor reveals and launch information — are coming soon. Keep an eye on our newsletter and social media. So, Should You Add Calcium to Your Crested Gecko’s Diet? Here’s a simple way to think about it: When in doubt, a complete diet with genuinely high calcium content takes a lot of the guesswork off the table — which is exactly the philosophy we built Frugivite around. Have questions about your gecko’s diet? We’re always happy to help. Reach out through our contact page or drop us a message on social media — we love talking geckos.
What Do I Do If My Crested Gecko Drops A Tail?
So you walked in one day and noticed your crested gecko is missing its tail. Don’t panic — but do act quickly. Tail loss (called autotomy) is a natural defense mechanism in many lizards, but crested geckos have a fun twist: they don’t grow it back. Unlike leopard geckos, a crested gecko that drops its tail is a “frogbutt” for life — and that’s totally fine! What matters most is how you care for them in the days and weeks after the drop. autotomy: self-amputation of a body part, like a tail Here’s everything you need to know. Why Do Crested Geckos Drop Their Tails? Crested geckos can voluntarily shed their tail when they feel threatened, stressed, or experience physical trauma. Some of the most common causes that we see include: The drop happens at a pre-formed fracture plane in the tail vertebrae, and while it looks alarming, the gecko’s body is actually designed for it. The bleeding is incredibly minimal and stops quickly on its own, typically within 3-5 minutes. Step 1: Stay Calm and Assess the Wound As soon as you notice the tail loss, gently remove your gecko and examine the drop site. You’re looking for: If the wound looks clean and bleeding has slowed, you can manage aftercare at home. If you see bone, necrotic tissue, or signs of infection, contact a reptile-experienced veterinarian right away. Seeing things like bones and heavy bleeding typically means your gecko lost its tail through a traumatic injury, not the process of autotomy. Step 2: Clean the Wound Once you’ve assessed the situation, gently clean the wound site. Use a reptile-safe wound care product rather than human antiseptics like hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol, which can damage tissue and good bacteria, leading to a delay in healing. Gecko Fancy Uses: Lugarti Reptile Wound Care — $18.00This is exactly the kind of product you want on hand for situations like this, this wound care is one of our favorite “all-in-one” fixes. Apply a small amount to the wound site to help keep it clean and support healing. In the first few days after a drop, we like to give the wound area a spritz of Wound Care once per day. We keep a bottle in our reptile first aid kit at all times, want to read more about what else we have in our kit? Check out our Reptile First Aid Kit blog post! Step 3: Move Your Gecko to a Hospital/Recovery Habitat This is critical. Your gecko’s normal habitat likely has substrate, decor, and humidity levels that can introduce bacteria to an open wound. Set up a simple, clean recovery tank with the following items: Keep the enclosure slightly drier than usual during the first 48–72 hours to discourage bacterial growth, then return to normal humidity once the wound has closed over. Step 4: Keep the Habitat Spotlessly Clean An open wound is an infection waiting to happen if the environment isn’t sanitary. Clean the recovery habitat daily and disinfect all surfaces with a reptile-safe cleaner. Gecko Fancy Uses: Lugarti Natural Terrarium & Cage Cleaner — $15.00A natural, reptile-safe formula that won’t leave harsh chemical residues that could irritate your gecko’s healing tissue. Use this on the enclosure walls, hides, and any surfaces your gecko contacts. (On a side note though, this cleaner not only works incredibly well, but also smells fantastic!) Step 5: Separate from Any Cage Mates — Immediately If your gecko was housed with another gecko, separate them now. Even the most docile cage mate can irritate, bite at, or stress a wounded gecko, dramatically increasing infection risk. Keep them apart until the wound has fully healed — and honestly, consider whether cohabitation is right for your setup long term. Step 6: Support Recovery with Proper Nutrition Your gecko’s body just went through a trauma, and healing requires resources. This is a great time to make sure their diet is dialed in. A high-quality complete gecko diet ensures they’re getting the protein, calcium, and nutrients needed to recover. Gecko Fancy Uses: Lugarti Premium Gecko Diet (6+ Month Supply) — $22.00A science-backed complete meal replacement powder designed for crested geckos. Offer this as their primary food throughout the recovery period – and we recommend for life. Lugarti Reptile Protein Powder – Omnivore – $10.00A protein boost you can dust over feeder insects or mix in with their diet during recovery. Extra protein helps to support tissue repair! Lugarti Ultra Premium Reptile Calcium (without D3) — $10.00Calcium is essential for healing and overall health. Dust feeders with this supplement or mix into gecko diet a few times per week. Lugarti Premium Bee Pollen — $18.00Bee pollen is a natural superfood packed with amino acids and antioxidants. Sprinkle a small amount on your gecko’s food to encourage appetite and support immune function during recovery. Lugarti Premium Reptile Probiotics — $18.00Stress is known to frequently disrupt gut flora. Probiotics help to maintain a healthy digestive system and can support immune health during the recovery period. Step 7: Monitor Daily for Signs of Infection Check the wound site every day for the first two weeks. Signs that something is wrong include: Any of these warrant a vet visit — don’t wait it out. Step 8: Return to Normal Care Once Healed Once the wound site has fully closed and your gecko is eating, behaving, and looking normal, you can transition them back to their regular habitat. The tail drop site will eventually smooth over into a rounded stub — your little frogbutt is just as healthy and loveable as before! The Bottom Line Tail loss in crested geckos looks scary, but it’s very manageable with the right response. Clean the wound, move to a recovery setup, keep everything sterile, support nutrition, and monitor closely. Almost all healthy crested geckos recover without any complications. The key is being prepared — keeping reptile wound care and a clean cage spray on hand before you ever need them. Check out Gecko Fancy’s Medical Supplies
Why Do Reptiles Shed?
If you’ve ever noticed your gecko looking a bit “dusty” or seen your snake’s eyes turn a ghostly, milky blue, you’ve witnessed the start of one of nature’s most fascinating biological “makeovers.” This process, scientifically known as ecdysis, is a vital cycle that keeps your reptile healthy, growing, and vibrant. But why exactly do they do it, and what should you do if the process doesn’t go smoothly? Let’s dive into the science of the shed! Why Reptiles Need to Shed Unlike humans, who lose tiny, invisible skin cells every single day, reptiles have a much more dramatic way of refreshing their appearance. A reptile’s skin is covered in scales made of keratin—the same tough protein found in your fingernails and hair. While this skin is excellent for protection and preventing water loss, it has one major flaw: it doesn’t stretch. Think of a reptile’s skin like a child’s t-shirt. As the child grows, the shirt stays the same size. Eventually, they have to “size up” to a new shirt. Reptiles shed to literally step out of an old, tight skin to reveal a larger, more flexible one underneath. Parasite and Injury Management Shedding is also a form of “deep cleaning.” Ecdysis (shedding) helps physically remove external parasites like mites or ticks that may be clinging to the old scales. Minor skin injuries or worn-out scales are replaced with a fresh, healthy layer, almost like hitting a “reset button” for their skin. Boosting UV Absorption Fresh skin is more efficient at absorbing UV rays. This is crucial because UV light allows reptiles to synthesize Vitamin D3, which they need to process calcium and maintain strong bones. In some species, a fresh shed even improves UV-reflective coloration used for social communication and attracting mates. The Shedding Process Shedding doesn’t happen all at once; it follows a predictable timeline. Pre-Shedding Pre-Shedding, or the “blue” phase, is the very start of your reptile’s process of shedding. Before the skin actually peels, you’ll notice a few tell-tale signs: The Shedding Stage Once the new skin is ready, the fluid clears and the reptile begins the physical work. Stuck Shed Sometimes, the old skin doesn’t come off completely. This is called dysecdysis or “stuck” shed. Common Culprits Pay close attention to toes, tail tips, and eye caps. Stuck skin in these areas can act like a tourniquet, cutting off circulation and potentially leading to the loss of a digit or tip of the tail. How to Prevent it What to do About it Shedding is a window into your reptile’s overall health. A clean, complete shed is a great sign that your husbandry is on point. By providing the right humidity, rough textures, and a proper diet, you’re helping your pet thrive in their “new skin” – and you know they’re growing too! References:
Why Does My Crested Gecko Change Colors?
Have you ever noticed your Crested Gecko transforming before your eyes, shifting from a muted, almost drab appearance to a vibrant, eye-catching display of color? It’s a captivating phenomenon that most new keepers aren’t prepared for, and understanding it is key to providing the best possible care for your scaly friend. Let’s dive deep into the science behind why Crested Geckos change colors, exploring the fascinating processes of “firing up” and “firing down,” and what these changes reveal about your gecko’s well-being and mood. How Geckos Change Colors Unlike chameleons in popular culture, which can change colors almost instantaneously, Crested Geckos undergo a more gradual process of color change, known as “firing up” and “firing down.” This process isn’t just about aesthetics, it’s a complex interplay of biology, environment, and physiology. The magic happens within specialized skin cells called chromatophores, located in the dermis layer. These aren’t like the pigment cells in human’s skin. Reptiles have multiple types of chromatophores that act like sophisticated light manipulators. Here’s a breakdown of the key players: These chromatophores are arranged in a highly organized structure called the dermal chromatophore unit (DCU). Iridophores form a reflective base, with xanthophores above them, and melanophores with branching extensions weaving throughout. When melanosomes (the pigment-containing structures within melanophores) move into these extensions, they block light, resulting in darker skin. When they retract, more light reflects, leading to brighter colors. This pigment translocation is powered by cellular structures called microtubules and actin filaments. This movement isn’t instant, it takes a few minutes, which is why you see a gradual color intensification when your gecko “fires up”. Crested Geckos can also undergo slower morphological color changes over weeks or months, where the number or density of chromatophore cells changes in response to long-term environmental stimuli. This explains why captive-bred geckos can develop more vibrant colors over time with optimal nutrition, UVB exposure, and humidity cycles. Firing Up vs. Firing Down “Firing up” refers to when a Crested Gecko displays its most vibrant, saturated, and intensely pigmented coloration. Colors are brighter, more contrasted, and clearly defined. This is the state you’ll typically find photos of. “Firing down,” on the other hand, means the gecko exhibits more muted, pale, and overall less vibrant coloration, with reduced saturation. A vibrant red gecko might appear pale pinkish-brown or even white or grey when fired down. Important Note: Firing up does not indicate stress! It’s primarily an environmental response to increased humidity, environmental activities, and lighting. In fact, firing up often signals comfort as they prepare for going about their daily activities! Have you ever heard the term “misfire”? Geckos exist on a color continuum, sometimes appearing “misfired” with partial color expression. These transitions can happen multiple times a day, and may happen frequently or infrequently. Typically, when misfiring is the case, you’ll find that it’s found around the limbs. On our geckos, it’s almost always around the joints and tends to be where outer limbs sare covering skin on the body! Environmental Triggers Humidity and lighting are the primary drivers of color change, with temperature playing a supporting role. As a reminder, stress can cause temporary darkening, but this is different from “firing up”. What Colors Reveal Coloration is a key indicator of a Crested Gecko’s health. Pale appearance during shedding is normal, it typically appears almost like there’s a sheet on top of your gecko! As juveniles, they typically shed their skin once per month or every other month, becoming “duller” during this period. For adults, they shed much more infrequently because they are no longer growing! My adults typically shed two to three times per year in total. Persistent dark coloring, however, can signal health issues, inadequate temperature, or metabolic problems. On the contrary, unusually pale patches may indicate skin infections. Diet also plays a large role in coloration, just like in people! A balanced diet with calcium and vitamin D3 leads to more vibrant colors, and of course, a healthier gecko. Here at Gecko Fancy, we recommend Lugarti Premium Gecko Diet! Some breeders report that UVB lighting enhances coloration, but there are no published studies confirming this at this time. Morphs, Traits, and Hereditary Patterns Crested Gecko genetics are complex, with most color morphs being polygenic. There are five confirmed genetic morphs with understood inheritance patterns: lily white, phantom, cappuccino, axanthic, and sable. Many other traits, like pinstripe, harlequin, and dalmatian, show inheritance patterns consistent with incomplete dominance. A gecko might appear plain when fired down but reveal spectacular colors when fired up. Young geckos also undergo dramatic color and sometimes pattern development through their growth to adulthood. Circadian Rhythms and Daily Color Cycles Color changes are linked to circadian rhythms and nocturnal behavior. You’ll find that disrupting the light-dark cycle can disrupt color expression. It’s one of the reasons we recommend providing a natural amount of light per day with distinct transitions between seasons. It really helps your gecko’s internal clock! Lifespan Color Changes Similar to people, hatchling or baby colors often differ greatly from adult colors. In Crested Geckos, color development accelerates between 3-6 months, with most geckos reaching their final coloration by 8-12 months. Several morphs and genes continue to change throughout their full growth to adulthood, however. We find that Lily White, Snowflake, Whitewall, and Drippy genes tend to continue changing through the 2-3 year mark. Practical Tips for Gecko Keepers Understanding why Crested Geckos change colors is more than just a scientific curiosity, we think it’s essential for providing optimal care and appreciating the beauty of these fascinating reptiles. By paying attention to environmental factors, observing color changes, and understanding the genetics at play, you can unlock the secrets of your gecko’s vibrant world. Ready to take your Crested Gecko care to the next level? Check out these sources and references, and check out other posts on the Gecko Fancy blog! Sources and References https://acreptiles.com/new_store/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=38 What Your Gecko’s Color Changes Reveal Daily What Your Gecko’s Color Changes Reveal Daily https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8955407/ https://www.oreateai.com/blog/understanding-your-crested-geckos-pale-appearance/3f00242ab772bcca032cb20f4f3d4dfe https://www.geckooverload.com/care-sheet https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromatophore https://howtocrestie2.weebly.com/health-check.html
How To Set Up A Reptile First Aid Kit
Reptile keeping is a rewarding hobby, but are you prepared for the unexpected? As of today, Thursday, January 15, 2026, reptile ownership is on the rise, with approximately 5.7 million U.S. households enjoying the unique companionship of these amazing creatures [6]. With Millennials and Gen Z now representing a significant portion of reptile owners [6], it’s more important than ever to be equipped to handle minor health issues and emergencies. This comprehensive guide will walk you through creating your own reptile first aid kit, ensuring you’re ready to provide the best possible care for your scaled friend. 1. Building Your DIY Reptile First Aid Kit: Essential Items A well-stocked reptile first aid kit is your first line of defense against common injuries and illnesses. Here’s a list of essential items to include: 2. Why Natural Products Are Recommended for Reptiles When it comes to your reptile’s health, choosing the right products is crucial. Reptiles have unique physiological characteristics that make them sensitive to certain chemicals [27, 30]. That’s why natural and reptile-specific formulations are often recommended. Probiotic supplements like NutriBAC df are also beneficial. Research has demonstrated that NutriBAC df can significantly reduce or eliminate Salmonella shedding in infected reptiles [14]! 3. When to DIY vs. When to Call the Reptile Vet Knowing when to treat a minor issue yourself and when to seek professional veterinary care is critical. Reptiles are masters at hiding illness, so early detection is key [20, 23]. Seek Immediate Veterinary Care If: Remember, approximately 90% of reptile medical cases result from improper nutrition or inadequate environmental support [57]. If you’re unsure, it’s always best to consult with a qualified reptile veterinarian and reach out to your breeder. The Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) offers a veterinarian finder tool on their website [23, 45]. Conclusion: Be Prepared, Be Proactive Creating a reptile first aid kit is a proactive step towards ensuring the health and well-being of your scaled companion. By stocking the right supplies and knowing when to seek professional help, you can provide the best possible care for your reptile. Don’t wait for an emergency to strike. Start building your reptile first aid kit today! Sources and References
10 Reasons Crested Geckos Make the Best First Pets
Thinking about getting a new pet or looking for the best first pet to help teach responsibility? While puppies and kittens are undeniably cute, they also come with a lot of responsibility and can be incredibly expensive to maintain properly. If you’re looking for a unique, fascinating, and surprisingly low-maintenance companion, we truly believe that the Crested Gecko is your bestie! These adorable reptiles are a favorite among first-time pet owners, and for good reason. Here are 10 reasons that we think Crested Geckos make the best first pets: 1. No Heat Required Unlike many other reptiles, Crested Geckos thrive at comfortable room temperatures. This means you typically won’t need expensive and potentially tricky heating lamps or mats, making their setup simpler and safer. This also allows you to save a significant amount of money on these heating elements, also helping to prevent any issues with them catching fire or melting anything important! 2. Minimal Space Requirements Don’t have a lot of extra room? No problem! A single adult Crested Gecko can live comfortably in a 12x12x18 inch habitat, like our Gecko Fancy Castle Habitat! Their arboreal nature means they appreciate height over floor space, so you can easily fit their enclosure in a corner, on your desk, or on a sturdy dresser. 3. Gentle and Docile Nature Crested Geckos are known for their calm and placid personalities. They are not inherently aggressive and are generally quite tolerant of handling, especially when accustomed to it from a young age like we do here at Gecko Fancy! This makes them a joy to interact with without fear of nips or bites, or any of the injuries that go along with those. 4. No Teeth or Claws to Worry About Concerned about getting hurt? Rest assured, Crested Geckos are completely harmless! They have no teeth to speak of – just tiny, almost imperceptible ridges on their gums – and their claws are soft and used for climbing, posing no threat to human skin. We teach kids as young as two years old to handle them! Have you ever caught a fish? Their mouths feel exactly the same as the inside of a fish mouth! 5. Incredibly Easy to Care For This is a big one for first-time pet owners! Crested Geckos have a relatively straightforward care routine. Their diet consists of a specially formulated, complete crested gecko diet (CGD) powder mixed with water, which means no live insects are strictly necessary. We recommend feeding Lugarti Gecko Food, as it’s the most cost effective, contains the best ingredients, and has the best success rate with our geckos. Feed your gecko three times per week, mist them when you feed, and you’re good to go! 6. Long Lifespan A well-cared-for Crested Gecko can live for 15 years or even longer! This means you’ll have a long-term companion to enjoy, making the initial investment in their setup truly worthwhile. 7. Fascinating to Observe Even if they aren’t constantly begging for attention, Crested Geckos are incredibly interesting to watch. They are crepuscular, so you’ll often catch them exploring, hunting, and climbing during the morning and evening hours. Their ability to change color (the process of firing up and firing down) and their unique sticky toe pads are endlessly captivating. 8. Quiet Companions Tired of barking dogs or chirping birds? Crested Geckos are virtually silent pets. They don’t make any noise that will disturb your household, making them ideal for apartment dwellers or those who prefer a tranquil home environment. Every once in a while, you might hear the occasional quiet squeak or the funny splat they make when they jump, but that’s it! 9. Inexpensive to Maintain After the initial setup costs for their habitat and basic supplies, the ongoing expenses for a Crested Gecko are quite low. Their specialized diet powder is economical, and they don’t require vet visits if kept in proper conditions. The smaller bags of Lugarti tend to last between 3-4 months and the bigger bags last between 9-12 months! 10. A Unique and Rewarding Experience Owning a Crested Gecko offers a truly unique pet ownership experience. They are beautiful, interesting, and develop distinct personalities. For those looking for something a little different, the joy and satisfaction of caring for these amazing creatures are immense. So, if you’re ready to welcome a new member into your family but want a pet that’s easy to care for, friendly, and doesn’t demand a lot of space, a Crested Gecko might just be the perfect choice for you!
Gecko 101: Leopard Gecko Care
Welcome to the wonderful world of Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius)! These hardy, docile, and character-filled reptiles are one of the most popular first-time pets. Our guide will walk you through setting up their perfect home and keeping them healthy and happy, the Gecko Fancy way! Habitat Setup: Creating the Perfect Home The Enclosure Substrate (Flooring) The substrate choice is crucial for your gecko’s health. Safe Substrates (Recommended) Substrates to AVOID Paper Towels: Easy to clean, great for juveniles/quarantine. Calci-Sand/Vitamin Sands: Often ingested, causing impaction. Slate Tile/Non-Adhesive Shelf Liner: Easy to disinfect, holds heat well. Loose Sand (Play Sand, etc.): High impaction risk. Scott’s Top Soil/Play Sand Combo: This is what we personally use! A 70% Top Soil, 30% Play Sand mix is what we find our geckos love the best! Reptile Carpet: Requires frequent, thorough washing, holds a significant amount of bacteria. Hides A leopard gecko requires a minimum of two hides to feel secure and regulate its body temperature and moisture. Diet & Nutrition Leopard Geckos are insectivores and should never be fed fruits or vegetables, or something like a Crested Gecko/Frugivore Deit. Their main diet consists of live insects. We feed our geckos three times per week! Staple Feeders Treat Feeders Water Always provide a shallow, clean dish of fresh water. While you do not have to use dechlorinated or spring water, we do specify that you should only ever use clean water. Please do not use outside/unfiltered water like from a puddle or pond! Shedding & Health Shedding (Ecdysis) Leopard Geckos shed their skin as they grow. It’s more frequent for babies to shed than adults, but adults will still shed throughout their lifetime! You’ll know if a gecko is about to shed because their skin will appear dull, grey, white, and/or begin to lift around their joints. Make sure at least one of their hides is wet or very humid to make sure they are able to shed their skin! Geckos, including Leopard Geckos, typically eat their shedded skin to get more calcium back into their bodies, so it’s very possible your gecko may also shed without you knowing! If the skin doesn’t come off fully, especially around the toes or eyes, it can constrict circulation. A warm, shallow soak can help loosen stuck skin, which you can then gently remove with a moist cotton swab. Want to make it a little bit easier? We recommend keeping a Shed Spray on hand, like the Lugarti Shedding Spray! Common Health Issues
Gecko 101 : Crested Gecko Care
Are you ready to take on your next adventure or just getting started in the reptile world? Crested Geckos are an evergreen favorite, consistently easy to care for, friendly, and safer than other starter or beginner-friendly reptiles thanks to a combination of their diet and lack of teeth. Let’s start with the basics! The scientific name of Crested Geckos is “Correlophus ciliatus” and they are a member of the Diplodactylidae family. These geckos natively live in the country of New Caledonia, fairly close to Australia. Crested Geckos are arboreal, meaning that they like to climb! Unlike frogs, geckos are not sticky or slimy. In fact, their toes work very similarly to velcro and are actually made up of millions of little tiny hairs called “setae”. Unlike velcro, though, the setae are able to rid themselves of any stuck debris by the gecko flexing its toes! Ready to move on to how to care for your new friend? Here’s how we care for our geckos. Enclosures Juveniles When you house a juvenile or baby Crested Gecko, you have to keep in mind that they aren’t quite as smart as we’re used to with most animals. They can easily get lost in an enclosure and won’t be able to find their food, or become stressed if it’s too open and there aren’t enough places to hide. Here at Gecko Fancy, we personally house our babies and juveniles in our acrylic Cottage Habitat kits you might have seen us with at shows, roughly 8x8x12 inches. We’ve found that for our juveniles, the size and combination of items in the kit is perfect and allows them enough room to explore but not enough to get lost or stressed. Adults For our adult Crested Geckos, this is when it really gets fun with options! Enclosures are very personal, and honestly trial and error. What some keepers prefer is different from others, and it’s the same for the animals too. We have lots of geckos who prefer slightly smaller areas or they get stressed, and lots of geckos who prefer more room to roam. For us, we’ve found the majority of our geckos are the happiest and least stressed in a 12x12x18 inch enclosure, like our Castle Habitat! If you find yourself with a gecko that prefers to sleep upside down, we like to switch them to an enclosure around 10 inches tall in order to curb the upside down sleeping and in turn, prevent floppy tail syndrome (FTS). Substrate We keep all of our babies on paper towel to prevent accidental ingestion of any dirt. Geckos don’t tend to encounter dirt very often in the wild, and haven’t developed an instinct telling them not to eat the dirt. Not a fan of the look of paper towel? You can always try ground or fine coconut coir! Coco coir is a natural medium made from ground up coconuts. As long as you find yourself with a pure coco coir product, you shouldn’t have to worry about things you might find in dirt like micro plastics, minuscule rocks, or unwelcome visitors like mites. If you have a juvenile or adult Crested Gecko, you can always go with a bioactive or semi-bioactive setup! At their size, if they accidentally swallow any substrate, they should be able to pass it as long as the substrate is fine and not very chunky in texture. We prefer Scott’s Top Soil, which you can purchase at most big box stores, including Walmart, Lowe’s, and Home Depot! Think this is the route for you? Make sure you add other essentials to ensure that your tank is a truly self-running bioactive setup! You’ll want a clean up crew comprised of at least springtails, but you can always add other isopods for an extra fun pet-for-your-pet type of a thing! Food These geckos are relatively easy to feed with a number of complete diets available on the market! Crested Geckos are “frugivores” (sometimes written as “fruitivores”) and consume mostly fruit with a recommended mix of live insects like crickets or dubia roaches. On the market right now, you’ll be able to choose from a very wide variety of commercially prepared diets. We’ve tried them all, and our personal favorite is the Lugarti Premium Crested Gecko Diet. It’s made of the best ingredients, made in the USA, and is cheaper than a lot of other options on the market! If you’re feeding a nutritionally complete diet like Lugarti, we do not recommend feeding live insects in addition to that diet. Because they are comprised of all of the nutrients that your gecko needs, adding insects in addition adds extra protein, fat, and other things that can cause obesity over time. Live insects are also where you’ll typically find nasty things like parasites and salmonella. We recommend staying away from them as much as possible. We feed our geckos three times per week, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Some breeders recommend removing uneaten food between feeding days, but we find that some of our geckos prefer to eat their food after it’s sat for a little bit. Think about it like this, they typically eat rotten fruit in the wild! Some prefer a little extra tang to that scent, if that makes sense. A lot of our success with growing juveniles and hatchling geckos is by adding honey and bee pollen to our complete diets. These are both natural appetite stimulants and preservatives, so they both help to extend the amount of time a batch is good in our refrigerator! We always recommend using locally produced honey, just like for people! When it comes to water, ensure you use clean water (and not from a pool or pond!) to mix your gecko’s food and mist them. Humidity We’re located in Arkansas, a naturally very humid environment. New Caledonia has an almost identical climate when it comes to ambient humidity and temperatures. This allows us to maintain ideal humidity levels just through misting when we feed our geckos. If you live in a drier climate, we recommend misting more to increase
What do Geckos use Tails for?
Depending on the species, geckos have a wide range of uses for their tails! For some, you may have seen a regrowing tail that has funny looking proportions, or maybe you’re familiar with the ever-popular “frog-butt” Crested Geckos! Let’s take a look at the most common uses (or lack of uses) for gecko tails! Balance Have you ever seen a cat fall off of something and quickly rotate their tail in a circle over and over again? Even though it may look silly, this is actually an instinctive behavior that cats have learned to help them right themselves to the perfect angle while they fall. This helps to ensure that they always land on their feet — and at an angle they can easily recover from. Similarly to cats, geckos and many other arboreal species, use their tails for balance while they fall! Fat Storage If you’ve been in any pet stores or visited any reptile shows or exotic animal expos, chances are, you’ve seen a Leopard Gecko or a Fat Tail Gecko at some point! These two species are some of the best examples of geckos that use their tails to store fat, one of them even has it in their name! Extra Leg Have you ever seen an opossum hanging from a tree or seen photos of a kangaroo with its tail on the ground? These are some of the more commonly thought of animals with a unique trait — they’re called prehensile tails. It’s a fancy word for saying an animal can use its tail like an arm! You’ll very frequently see geckos like the Sarasinorum or Chahoua using their very strong tails to hang from things in their enclosures. Nothing! If you’re familiar with Crested Geckos, you may know that they don’t regrow their tails if they drop them. That’s because unlike other gecko species, they don’t seem to use them for any particular use! They do not store fat in them, they don’t particularly balance better with or without them, and they are not able to hang from them. As far as regrowing their tails, with limited research available into the matter that has been peer reviewed and is scientifically published, we have documentation that to the best of the scientific community’s knowledge, the only gecko that does not regrow their tail is the Crested Gecko. However, we learn new things every day and hundreds of species of animals are discovered every year, so that could always change in the future! We believe that because the Crested Gecko does not use their tails for a particular reason, their bodies have learned that regrowing their tails after a drop, just wastes energy and resources they could be using for other bodily functions.
Crested Gecko Genetics: The Secrets of Spots and Stripes
The Crested Gecko species is known for a dazzling array of colors and patterns, and maybe you’ve heard lots of fancy gene terms like “Cappuccino” or “Sable” or “Hypo”, but have you ever wondered what creates these unique appearances? It all boils down to a fascinating secret language: genetics! Think of genetics like a special code that determines everything about a living thing, from its eye color to its fur pattern. In the world of crested geckos, this code dictates the colors and markings we see on their skin. Here’s a simplified breakdown: Imagine Tiny Instructions These instructions, called genes, are the building blocks of all life and they work together to create all of your gecko’s features. Everything from the funny little eyelash crests to the exact distribution of scales, is completely controlled by genes! Genes work together like a pack of colored pencils to fill out the coloring sheet, in this case your gecko’s patterns and base colors! Mix and Match Just like mixing paint colors, different combinations of genes lead to different patterns and colors. Sometimes, when you mix in a color it doesn’t show up exactly like how you think it will. In the case of Crested Geckos, we call this “muddy” base colors! If you’ve heard the term “Het” or “Heterozygous“, these terms really describe non-visual carriers of a gene. Some morphs like Axanthic and Phantom can pass on the genes to an animal that may not actually look like the morph, but they can pass those genes on to babies that can look like the morph! Read more about what Non-Visual/Het actually means here: Foundation Genetics – Het Beyond Color Mixing Sometimes, these genes interact in surprising ways, creating even more unique and complex combinations. This is why some crested geckos have stripes, spots, or even a combination of both! There’s even different kinds of stripes, like Pinstripes, Quadstripes, Super Stripes, and Partial Pinstripes. Some genes can mix with other genes, for example, a Tricolor and a Lilly White can create a Tricolor Lilly White baby! Understanding these basic principles can help you appreciate the incredible diversity of Crested Geckos. It’s like having a secret decoder ring to unlock the fascinating story behind their unique appearances! Please Note: This is just a simplified explanation to help you understand the general genetics you might see in your Crested Gecko. The world of genetics is vast and complex, but hopefully, this gives you a taste of the incredible science behind the beauty of Crested Geckos! You can learn more about this amazing species by visiting our blog, right here!
Crickets vs Dubias: Which is Better for Your Geckos?
When it comes to feeding your beloved geckos, providing the right nutrition is essential for their health and well-being. The two most commonly chosen feeder insects are crickets and dubia roaches. Let’s take a look at the benefits of each option and help you decide which one is the best fit for your geckos. Nutritional Content Crickets Crickets are a popular choice for many reptile owners for a couple of key reasons, like their relatively high nutritional content and general availability. They are a good source of protein and provide essential nutrients like calcium and fiber. Plus, they are generally available at most pet stores so you’ll rarely find yourself in a bind where they are unavailable. Dubia Roaches Dubias are often praised for their excellent nutritional profile. They contain more protein and less fat than crickets, making them an ideal choice for growing and breeding geckos. Additionally, they have a softer exoskeleton, making them easier for geckos to digest. Size and Lifespan Crickets Crickets readily come in various sizes, which is beneficial for gecko owners with geckos of different ages. However, they have a relatively short lifespan, which means you’ll need to purchase and feed them more frequently. Another thing to consider? Larger crickets chirp frequently, which can be incredibly annoying when kept in the house. Dubia Roaches Dubia roaches are available in various sizes as well, but they’re less easy to find at multiple sizes locally unless you live in a larger city. One significant advantage is their longer lifespan compared to crickets. This means you can buy them in bulk and store them for more extended periods without worrying about them dying off quickly. Ease of Care Crickets Crickets are relatively high-maintenance. They require a well-ventilated container, proper temperature and humidity control, and a regular supply of food and water. If not cared for correctly, crickets can become smelly and potentially transmit diseases to your gecko. Dubia Roaches Dubias are generally low-maintenance and easier to care for, especially in comparison to crickets. They can be kept in a plastic container with proper ventilation, and they don’t produce a strong odor. They can subsist on a diet of fresh fruits and vegetables, making them more straightforward to feed and maintain. It is important to note, most dubia breeders recommend that you don’t keep them in your home because you can potentially develop an allergy to them. Here’s a great guide on breeding and keeping Dubias, alongside the proper warnings about ventilation and potential allergy development. Risk of Escapes Crickets Crickets are notorious escape artists. Their jumping ability and tendency to climb can lead to frequent escapes, which can be a nuisance for gecko owners. Dubia Roaches Dubia roaches are less likely to escape, as they are not known for their jumping abilities. This reduces the risk of having loose insects running around your home. Here at Gecko Fancy, we’ve never had a Dubia escape but we’ve had dozens of crickets escape over the years. Allergies and Odors Crickets Some people may be allergic to cricket dust, which can be an issue when handling them. Additionally, crickets can produce a distinctive, unpleasant odor when kept in large quantities. Dubia Roaches Dubia roaches do not produce as much dust as crickets, and they have a milder odor, making them a more pleasant choice for both you and your gecko. Like we mentioned above, however, you can develop an allergy to them if you keep them in a not properly ventilated area and don’t handle them with care. Both crickets and dubias have their advantages and disadvantages when it comes to feeding crested geckos, gargoyle geckos, leachianus or chahouas. While crickets are more readily available and come in various sizes, dubia roaches offer a superior nutritional profile, are easier to care for, and present fewer risks for escapes. Let us know, which do you prefer for your geckos and why?